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Posted by gustav at 12:01PM, Sunday, October 31st, 2004

No. 9 Park (restaurant review)

9 Park Street, Boston, Massachusetts

Oh boy.

I'm not sure why we didn't experience actual foodgasms at No. 9 Park. The food was tremendous -- especially the early courses. Desserts were lovely. Espresso was embarrassingly bad. We had a seven-course tasting menu with wine pairings. Some of the wines were really superb -- amongst the best I've ever had in a restaurant. (Sadly, all of our party were in too deep a state of inebriation to remember what they were, and the list we asked for and got from the staff wasn't quite right.) Prices are pretty high, but probably a good value, considering what you get. We experienced post-meal bloat and felt as though we had sinned.

This is the crown jewel in Barbara Lynch's Boston food empire, but we're more interested in the affable Chef de Cuisine Ben Elliot, formerly of dearly-departed restaurant Truc in the South End, which was one of our favorites in Boston.

The style, overall, is quite American: little handmade miniature donuts and marshmallows surrounding Japanese herbs hint at French Laundry-style preciousness -- but it all comes together; and hey, Boston can use some of that trendiness.

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